The next day, I decided to check out Ginkaku-ji (the Temple of the Silver Pavilion). It was built in 1492 as a retirement villa for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa, and meant to be coated with silver (like Kinkakuji). Unfortunately, he died before this could happen, so it's just a simple two-story wood structure. What I liked best about this place was it's moss collection. At least, that's what I think it was, since I can't read Japanese.
From there, I walked down Philosopher's Pathway to Nanzen-ji, a Rinzai zen temple set amid a grove of spruce. I have to admit though that the primary reason I took the walk was because of Nanzenji's proximity to Okutan, supposedly one of Kyoto's oldest and most authentic tofu restaurants. Lunch there was pretty amazing, although I'd pretty much reached my tofu limit by the time I was done (which I wouldn't have thought possible before).
After lunch, I headed to Heian Shrine, a huge orange and green structure commemorating the 1,100th anniversary of the founding of Kyoto. I wasn't terribly impressed and decided to skip its gardens (supposedly the highlight of the shrine) and headed to Sanjusangendo Hall. Now this place is just stunning. The hall itself is almost 400 feet long, the longest wooden building in Japan, and houses 1,000 life-sized statues of the thousand-handed Kannon, 500 on each side of the central 11 feet high statue of Kannon. The hall is so long they used to have archery competitions in the corridor behind the statues. Definitely a must see.
Unfortunately, it had started to rain while I was in Sanjusangendo Hall, so I got nice and wet as I waited for the bus to Kiyomizu Temple. Fortunately for me, the street from the bus stop up to the temple was lined with stores, most of them with umbrellas for sale, and I'm now the owner of a green transparent umbrella.
Kiyomizu Temple was one of three highlights in Kyoto for me, despite the rain. It's built on Mount Otowa and has some great views. There's also a spring here on which it's name is based: kiyomizu translates as "pure water", which it certainly is. There's a line to drink the water as gushes from three fountains, and I can only imagine how refreshing it must be when it's hot.
It was dusk by the time I left Kiyomizu and caught the bus to Gion. The rain pretty much dissuaded me from doing any exploring though, so I went to the Yasaka Shrine instead. It's open 24 hours, and I was pleasantly surprised to find it lit with lanterns at night.
From there, I made my way to Minako for dinner. Their specialty: kobe beef, teppanyaki style. I've never had kobe beef before, and since I've been to Japan about five times now, I figured it was time I gave it a shot. I had a piece of sirloin, and it was good. I actually find it a little hard to describe. You know it's definitely beef, but it just doesn't taste like any beef I've ever had before. The difference is in the texture, and the only word that comes to mind is that it's "springier", somehow lighter than regular beef.